Morning.
I have been in communication with Mr. Prust , and am about to order a basic tackhead with the mentioned specs.
My choices of pot size it just from a comfort level. The pot on the Carver is only 9", too small I know , but darn comfortable for sitting cross legged playing. 99% of my playing is done with only me around , so projection is not as much a issue as me feeling good holding the instrument. I have a nice D size guitar,, but when I play I end up picking a classical size Seagull.
So can you tell me what I will be missing out on not getting a 13" pot and getting a 11?
Im sorry but Im so new at this , I dont even know ,, what I dont know.
THe minsterel strings I hated last wk,, I put them on ,,, just dropping the 3rd and adding a 1 string and love it. I will learn
Eric , also suggested a shorter scale. I have measured where I put the bridge on my current banjo ,,, and it makes a 26" scale. I cant really put bridge farther back ,, due to head size and the way it was made.
So Im thinking 26 will be good.
I you have any opinions or tips, of things Im overlooking , please if you will post them , or pm me.
Thanks for your patience, in this question and all the others
Respectfully
Steve Jeter
Tags:
I think its the music, and the performance of that repertoire, that count the most.
I agree totally. And as you said earlier, reaching a plateau is often accompanied by a new prize instrument. In the meantime, have something function and efficient that you enjoy playing
After some thought I would like to admit that I was out of line with my previous statements. I am sorry. I can see how it was unnecessary and rude and I would like resend it.
I don't want to discourage anyone from buying any make of banjo, esp. if it is of "early" style.
I personally feel 12" is a nice size, good for banjo tricks too. You might also think about getting one with hooks and screws. This will allow you to change the head easier, if it needs a thiner one for more carrying power, should you need it. A deeper rim will also help with more "tubby" resonance preferred by the hobby today. of the style.
As to pegs, if you get a chance read "Observations on the Banjo and Banjo Playing," by Swaim Stewart (free from my website) he gives full instructions on how to use friction pegs. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wish they were on every banjo.
HeyJoel
Were both Texans, and we have a opinion on everything LOL,, I never took you as offensive. Would like to talk on phone again, you know a bunch of stuff.
My momma said I was born w/o tact, but Im trying to learn some on this internet communication. People cant see you smile or the tone of your voice. I learnd that the hard way.
Steve
deuceswilde said:
After some thought I would like to admit that I was out of line with my previous statements. I am sorry. I can see how it was unnecessary and rude and I would like resend it.
I don't want to discourage anyone from buying any make of banjo, esp. if it is of "early" style.
I personally feel 12" is a nice size, good for banjo tricks too. You might also think about getting one with hooks and screws. This will allow you to change the head easier, if it needs a thiner one for more carrying power, should you need it. A deeper rim will also help with more "tubby" resonance preferred by the hobby today. of the style.
As to pegs, if you get a chance read "Observations on the Banjo and Banjo Playing," by Swaim Stewart (free from my website) he gives full instructions on how to use friction pegs. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wish they were on every banjo.
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