Bridges

[Steve Jeter]

 My Carver came with a nice looking bridge , that gave low action,  until the head soaked up some moisture. Then action  was so low it buzzed. So I made a 2 foot brifge  out of 1/4 oak, a bit taller  about 5/8. It worked fine until I this past wknd. put some Nylguts on ,   then when I was playing the bridge would fall over and go whap! I think due to sag & bridge being so close to tailpiece.

  So now I made a bridge  out of 3/8 poplar,, thinning it everywhere but the base for stability. I seems to work fine , and not adversely affect the tone.

 What is the normal size of the bridge where it lays on the head??

 

[Rob Morrison]

Steve--

 

Bridges normally come in 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch heights.  Most modern bridges tend to be longer than 19th century bridges.  I use bridges the same length as a modern Grover Non- Tip bridge., which just happens to have the exact same length and string spacing as 19th century S. S. Stewart bridges.  I actually make my bridges out of the Grovers.  Nineteenth century bridges were all over the place, but many were narrower than modern bridges, and many were two-footers.  Two-foot bridges do well for my older banjos, but opinions will differ.  It also probably depends on the specific characteristics of the banjo in question.  Hope this helps.

Rob Morrison

[Joel Hooks]

Here is a pattern...

[Steve Jeter]

Thanks , that how I made mine, except I didnt have any bass wood around. I remember this from your site

[Tim Twiss]

Bridge height is all relative...to the angle at which your neck is set.

[Steve Jeter]

Danl response is gone??

[Bart McNeil]

Normally the bridge should be pretty close to the tailpiece (depending on the size of pot and tailpiece).... Mine is roughly two inches.  I am assuming that the bridge fell forward (toward the fretboard). If so it was caused by the tightening of the strings and as they stretch under tension they pull the bridge forward until it flops over. You should be able to adjust the bridge to vertical  under tension, but if not then lower the tension on the strings a bit,  bring the bridge up to just the tailpiece side of vertical and let the increasing tension pull the bridge gradually up to vertical. A standard bridge foot of roughly 1/8" should be fine.... You really don't need a wide foot on your bridge and I don't know that there is any advantage to a wide bridge foot (base).

     Some bridges have a little cross piece in the center of the bridge to prevcent just such tilting... But I don't find that kind of bridge necessary. It is just a matter of practice to get it correct.

     I assume you know how to find the correct location on the head for the bridge... If not, ask.

     Also get used to adjusting tension on on your head (if adjustable). I normally check it daily and tweak it if necessary depending on humidity. That will cure the sinking bridge syndrome.