Minstrel Banjo

For enthusiasts of early banjo

Anyone out there ever built a grain measure banjo?  I'm looking for strategies for getting the tacks into this tackhead. Though it looks pretty sound, I'm scared to death of splitting the old hoop along the grain by pushing a bunch of tacks into it. Are tiny pilot holes an option? If so, can you actually see them through a wet goatskin?  Any and all suggestions gratefully received. Thanks

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I've only ever re-skinned busted tambourines but in my limited experience I would say, yes, and yes. With the one I was working on the holes were already there, from the previous tacks, and I could find them pretty easily through the wet hide. I don't think I would have been able to push them all the way in without having a hole already there. I could not find a tack that was the correct length to go far enough into the rim without coming out the other side, but that must have been the case too when these tambos were built as the old ones were bent over on the inside and knocked down so as to keep the sharp points slightly pressed into the wood. This made it a pain to remove them but I figured that's the way its done. It's early, hopefully you'll get some more experienced replies before you start the job. It does take a certain amount of confidence in knowing what you are doing before you soak that goatskin. I will say that despite my doubts, both of the heads I installed turned out well, very taught, maybe even too taught for the tastes of the percussionist I play with. D Culgan.
Thanks Dan,
My wife also had an idea about this. She suggested putting some little light source inside the hoop so the light shone through the pilot holes. I feel better already.

Ol' Dan Tucker said:
I've only ever re-skinned busted tambourines but in my limited experience I would say, yes, and yes. With the one I was working on the holes were already there, from the previous tacks, and I could find them pretty easily through the wet hide. I don't think I would have been able to push them all the way in without having a hole already there. I could not find a tack that was the correct length to go far enough into the rim without coming out the other side, but that must have been the case too when these tambos were built as the old ones were bent over on the inside and knocked down so as to keep the sharp points slightly pressed into the wood. This made it a pain to remove them but I figured that's the way its done. It's early, hopefully you'll get some more experienced replies before you start the job. It does take a certain amount of confidence in knowing what you are doing before you soak that goatskin. I will say that despite my doubts, both of the heads I installed turned out well, very taught, maybe even too taught for the tastes of the percussionist I play with. D Culgan.
hi ian -

the light will not work, but the pilot hole idea is correct. what you want to do it get a set of wire-gauge drill bits, and select one thats just slightly thinner than the shank of the tacks you will be using. drill each hole first, and then apply your glue (i use tightbond) before applying the wet skin. after you get your fist 4 tacks in without pulling too hard on the skin (North, South, East, West), you can begin to pull the skin as taught as you can with each tack as you move your way around the head. you will find that the skin becomes translucent when soaked, and that you can see through it. the drill holes will appear as tiny white dots through the skin, since they will be filled with glue. its really quite easy when you get down to it. if youve never done this before, i recommend getting at least one extra head to have ready. it is very easy to tear the first time on those first 2 to 4 tacks.
Thanks very much Jay, for those concise directions. It's great to have the input of experienced builders like yourself who don't mind sharing some of the "art & mystery" of their craft. I'll be sure to report back.

Moschella Banjos said:
hi ian -

the light will not work, but the pilot hole idea is correct. what you want to do it get a set of wire-gauge drill bits, and select one thats just slightly thinner than the shank of the tacks you will be using. drill each hole first, and then apply your glue (i use tightbond) before applying the wet skin. after you get your fist 4 tacks in without pulling too hard on the skin (North, South, East, West), you can begin to pull the skin as taught as you can with each tack as you move your way around the head. you will find that the skin becomes translucent when soaked, and that you can see through it. the drill holes will appear as tiny white dots through the skin, since they will be filled with glue. its really quite easy when you get down to it. if youve never done this before, i recommend getting at least one extra head to have ready. it is very easy to tear the first time on those first 2 to 4 tacks.
no problem at all. feel free to email if youve got any other questions. another thing you will want to do is get some jumbo rubber bands. after you are done tacking, but before the glue has dried, you can wrap it around the pot just under the tacks so it hols the skin flat against the rim, forcing the skin to dry flat, rather than wavy.

also, keep in mind the fact that grain measures are very, very old, and were usually made somewhat poorly. often the will split or crack badly once under tension from a taut, dry skin. however, it is very easy to make a homemade steam box, with which you can bend a strip of wood roughly 3/4" wide and 1/8th inch thick. such a strip makes a great rim reinforcement for the inside of the pot, right under the head. aesthetically, it looks good, and has the added benefit of covering up the tack shanks.

Ian Bell said:
Thanks very much Jay, for those concise directions. It's great to have the input of experienced builders like yourself who don't mind sharing some of the "art & mystery" of their craft. I'll be sure to report back.

Moschella Banjos said:
hi ian -

the light will not work, but the pilot hole idea is correct. what you want to do it get a set of wire-gauge drill bits, and select one thats just slightly thinner than the shank of the tacks you will be using. drill each hole first, and then apply your glue (i use tightbond) before applying the wet skin. after you get your fist 4 tacks in without pulling too hard on the skin (North, South, East, West), you can begin to pull the skin as taught as you can with each tack as you move your way around the head. you will find that the skin becomes translucent when soaked, and that you can see through it. the drill holes will appear as tiny white dots through the skin, since they will be filled with glue. its really quite easy when you get down to it. if youve never done this before, i recommend getting at least one extra head to have ready. it is very easy to tear the first time on those first 2 to 4 tacks.

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