Wood dye, finishes etc. - Minstrel Banjo2024-03-28T10:03:14Zhttps://minstrelbanjo.ning.com/forum/topics/wood-dye-finishes-etc?commentId=2477478%3AComment%3A63638&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noGeorge,
The information you p…tag:minstrelbanjo.ning.com,2012-02-24:2477478:Comment:636382012-02-24T21:13:19.034ZMatthew Mickletzhttps://minstrelbanjo.ning.com/profile/MatthewMickletz
<p>George,</p>
<p>The information you provided does indeed help! Thanks very much! I have some oils that I'm hoping are still OK, might have separated (became a watercolor guy years ago and never looked back at oils haha). Aqua Fortis sounds familiar, I'll test it out if I can get my hands on it. I'll most likely go the route of linseed oil and shellac then wax. We shall see!</p>
<p>George,</p>
<p>The information you provided does indeed help! Thanks very much! I have some oils that I'm hoping are still OK, might have separated (became a watercolor guy years ago and never looked back at oils haha). Aqua Fortis sounds familiar, I'll test it out if I can get my hands on it. I'll most likely go the route of linseed oil and shellac then wax. We shall see!</p> If you use an aniline do not…tag:minstrelbanjo.ning.com,2012-02-24:2477478:Comment:632272012-02-24T13:57:08.300ZGeorge Wunderlichhttps://minstrelbanjo.ning.com/profile/GeorgeWunderlich
<p>If you use an aniline do not use water. Use alcohol instead. It will not raise the grain as much and will make for a better finish in the end. </p>
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<p> So far as paint goes, use a regular artists oil paint cut with linseed oil and japan drier. For a thinner finish use the drier and a but of turpentine instead. You can also buy dry pigment and make your own paint, but there is little reason when the artist paint is basically what you will end up making. The original formula used…</p>
<p>If you use an aniline do not use water. Use alcohol instead. It will not raise the grain as much and will make for a better finish in the end. </p>
<p></p>
<p> So far as paint goes, use a regular artists oil paint cut with linseed oil and japan drier. For a thinner finish use the drier and a but of turpentine instead. You can also buy dry pigment and make your own paint, but there is little reason when the artist paint is basically what you will end up making. The original formula used lead oxide to make the paint opaque. Today this is replaced by less toxic substances. I have made lead paint once but could not discern a difference in the final product so I abandoned the project as too dangerous. </p>
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<p>In period banjos we don't see a whole lot of "staining". Mostly we see the use of re-agents like nitric acid (in the very mild form called aqua fortis. This brings out the grain on woods with heavy sugar content like maple when lightly heated. On non-sugar woods we see the use of potassium do-chromate. This is used by violin makers and works with both sugar and non-sugar woods.</p>
<p>When we do see translucent colors over wood they are a type of glaze. Usually this was a mixture of linseed oil and shellac with the pigment. By removing the opaque substrate you can get a nice glaze.</p>
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<p>I hope some of this helps. </p>